SIERRA NEVADA DEL COCUY: CLIMBING PART 1
SOUTHERN COCUY
Southern part of Sierra Nevada del Cocuy is where Pan de Azúcar and Púlpito del Diablo, amongst others, are located. To access this part you need to enter from Cabañas del Púlpito (Cabañas Guaicani on the map), sometimes referred to as Cueva Alta. It takes 1.5 hour from El Cocuy with lechero to get there (see:
GETTING THERE for more info). For Púlpito del Diablo, the normal route of Pan de Azúcar and North Ridge of Campanillas Blanco follow the trail to Laguna Pintada and turn left there for what is marked as "Hotelito - Pulpito" and continue to Campamento Lagunilas (4.5h from the entrance). For the East Faces follow the trail at the intersection to Laguna de la Plaza.
A good topographic map can be found
HERE
|
Púlpito del Diablo and Pan de Azúcar |
|
Pico Diamante with the East Face of Pan de Azúcar behind it |
PAN DE AZÚCAR
Elevation: 5,120m / 16,797ft
Normal Route (access from Lagunillas)
CLICK HERE for a very detailed description of the route with photos
EAST FACE
Access: from Laguna de la Plaza
“Pared Oriental del Pan de Azúcar” 5.10+, 600m (Agni Morales, Caro Vallejo, April 2005)
A very small image of the topo on
Monodedo website (on the left)
"La Sonrisa" 5.10d, 550m (Jairo Bogotá, Rafael Avila)
CLICK HERE for topo and
HERE for a route opening report (in Spanish)
"Matando Bacterias" 5.10, A2, 600m (Monika Bernal, ?
)
|
Púlpito del Diablo |
PÚLPITO DEL DIABLO
Elevation: 5,100m / 16,732ft
There
are at least several routes on Púlpito del Diablo but, apart from the
"normal route", I could not find any information on them.
Normal route 5.8, 70m
Access: from Lagunillas (see
Pan de Azúcar page for detailed description)
|
First pitch of the normal route |
The route is located on the east side of
the rock. It follows a crack and then a corner and chimney on the
second pitch. Good protection (medium nuts and friends) and belay
stations protected by some pitons left by other climbers.
A good photo with a topo
HERE and
HERE (click "CLICK TO READ", then go to PAGE 47 of 75)
|
South Face of Campanillas Negro |
CAMPANILLAS NEGRO
Elevation: 4,800m / 15,748ft
"Gárgolas" (South Face)
5.11a / A2, 450m (Luis Pardo, Leyla Cárdenas, Julio Granados, 12 January 2011)
Access: from Laguna Pintada
A good image of the route can be found
here
For a detailed topo follow
this link (click "CLICK TO READ" and go to page 5 of 9)
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com
|
The summit of Campanillas Blanco |
|
Campanillas Blanco seen from Lagunillas |
CAMPANILLAS BLANCO
Elevation: 4,900m / 16,076ft
Access: from Lagunillas (below Pan de Azúcar)
Arista Norte (North Ridge) 5.10+,
500m (Luis Pardo, Leyla Cárdenas, Catalina Noreña)
Click here for an image of the route
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com
Pared NorOriental (North East Face) 5.10+,
350m (Andrés Hilarión, Rene Liebert, Iván Macías, 23 January 2010)
Access: from Patio Bolos (Paso "B" on the map)
Photo of the
approach and the
route.
Story of the route opening on
Monodedo website (in Spanish)
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com
|
Campanillas Blanco and Pan de Azúcar from Patio Bolos |
|
El Diamante with Pico Toti on the right |
PICO TOTI
Elevation: 4,800m / 15,748ft
"Chikara" (East Face) 5.10+ / A1+,
360m (Luis Ossa, Darwin Bravo, Alex Torres, 01 January 2010)
Access: from Laguna de la Plaza
For a detailed topo follow this
link (click "CLICK TO READ" and go to page 5 of 9)
|
Pico Diamante |
PICO DIAMANTE
Elevation: 4800m / 15,748ft
EAST FACE
Access: from Laguna de la Plaza
"Licántropos" 5.9 / A1, 400m
(Luis Pardo, Diego Gómez, 9 January 2012)
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com
PORTALES
Elevation: 4800m / 15,748ft
"Gallito de Roca", 5.10b / A0 120m (Diego Cortés, Diego Parra, Mateo Franco)
Access: from Laguna Grande de la Sierra
Photo of the wall
HERE and a small one of the route
HERE
Report from the route opening (in Spanish) on
Monodedo website
Some more description (in Spanish)
here
CAÑÓN DEL RÍO CÓNCAVO
This is a very interesting sector that has a lot of potential for opening new routes.
A couple of routes already opened there:
"Las via U'wa" 5.10d, 4 pitches (Hugo Rocha, ?)
"Un miedo de muerte" 5.10b, 4 pitches (Hugo Rocha, ?)
"No other one bites the dust" 5.7 / A0, 300m, 8 pitches (Michael Schachtner, Frank Helbig)
CLICK HERE for the photo of the route
Read more:
Northern Cocuy
SEE MORE PHOTOS OF
EL COCUY ON FLICKR