SIERRA NEVADA DEL COCUY: CLIMBING PART 1

SIERRA NEVADA DEL COCUY: CLIMBING PART 1

SOUTHERN COCUY

Southern part of Sierra Nevada del Cocuy is where Pan de Azúcar and Púlpito del Diablo, amongst others, are located. To access this part you need to enter from Cabañas del Púlpito (Cabañas Guaicani on the map), sometimes referred to as Cueva Alta. It takes 1.5 hour from El Cocuy with lechero to get there (see: GETTING THERE for more info). For Púlpito del Diablo, the normal route of Pan de Azúcar and North Ridge of Campanillas Blanco follow the trail to Laguna Pintada and turn left there for what is marked as "Hotelito - Pulpito" and continue to Campamento Lagunilas (4.5h from the entrance). For the East Faces follow the trail at the intersection to Laguna de la Plaza.

A good topographic map can be found HERE

Púlpito del Diablo and Pan de Azúcar

Pico Diamante with the East Face of Pan de Azúcar behind it

PAN DE AZÚCAR
Elevation: 5,120m / 16,797ft

Normal Route (access from Lagunillas)
CLICK HERE for a very detailed description of the route with photos


EAST FACE
Access: from Laguna de la Plaza

“Pared Oriental del Pan de Azúcar” 5.10+, 600m (Agni Morales, Caro Vallejo, April 2005)
A very small image of the topo on Monodedo website (on the left)

"La Sonrisa" 5.10d, 550m (Jairo Bogotá, Rafael Avila)
CLICK HERE for topo and HERE for a route opening report (in Spanish)

 "Matando Bacterias" 5.10, A2, 600m (Monika Bernal, ?

)

Púlpito del Diablo

PÚLPITO DEL DIABLO
Elevation: 5,100m / 16,732ft

There are at least several routes on Púlpito del Diablo but, apart from the "normal route", I could not find any information on them.

Normal route 5.8, 70m
Access: from Lagunillas (see Pan de Azúcar page for detailed description)

First pitch of the normal route

The route is located on the east side of the rock. It follows a crack and then a corner and chimney on the second pitch. Good protection (medium nuts and friends) and belay stations protected by some pitons left by other climbers.

A good photo with a topo HERE and HERE (click "CLICK TO READ", then go to PAGE 47 of 75)

South Face of Campanillas Negro

CAMPANILLAS NEGRO
Elevation: 4,800m / 15,748ft

"Gárgolas" (South Face)
 5.11a / A2, 450m (Luis Pardo, Leyla Cárdenas, Julio Granados, 12 January 2011)

Access: from Laguna Pintada
A good image of the route can be found here

For a detailed topo follow this link (click "CLICK TO READ" and go to page 5 of 9)
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com

The summit of Campanillas Blanco

Campanillas Blanco seen from Lagunillas

CAMPANILLAS BLANCO
Elevation: 4,900m / 16,076ft

Access: from Lagunillas (below Pan de Azúcar)

Arista Norte (North Ridge) 5.10+, 
500m (Luis Pardo, Leyla Cárdenas, Catalina Noreña)

Click here for an image of the route
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com

Pared NorOriental (North East Face) 5.10+, 
350m (Andrés Hilarión, Rene Liebert, Iván Macías, 23 January 2010)
Access: from Patio Bolos (Paso "B" on the map)
Photo of the approach and the route.
Story of the route opening on Monodedo website (in Spanish)
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com

Campanillas Blanco and Pan de Azúcar from Patio Bolos

El Diamante with Pico Toti on the right

PICO TOTI
Elevation: 4,800m / 15,748ft

"Chikara" (East Face) 5.10+ / A1+, 
360m (Luis Ossa, Darwin Bravo, Alex Torres, 01 January 2010)
Access: from Laguna de la Plaza
For a detailed topo follow this link (click "CLICK TO READ" and go to page 5 of 9)

Pico Diamante

PICO DIAMANTE
Elevation: 4800m / 15,748ft

EAST FACE
Access: from Laguna de la Plaza
"Licántropos" 5.9 / A1, 400m (Luis Pardo, Diego Gómez, 9 January 2012)
To get more info email Club de Escalada Suesca: clubdeescaladasuesca[at]gmail.com

PORTALES
Elevation: 4800m / 15,748ft

"Gallito de Roca", 5.10b / A0 120m (Diego Cortés, Diego Parra, Mateo Franco)
Access: from Laguna Grande de la Sierra
Photo of the wall HERE and a small one of the route HERE
Report from the route opening (in Spanish) on Monodedo website
Some more description (in Spanish) here

CAÑÓN DEL RÍO CÓNCAVO

This is a very interesting sector that has a lot of potential for opening new routes.
A couple of routes already opened there:

"Las via U'wa" 5.10d, 4 pitches (Hugo Rocha, ?)
"Un miedo de muerte" 5.10b, 4 pitches (Hugo Rocha, ?)
"No other one bites the dust" 5.7 / A0, 300m, 8 pitches (Michael Schachtner, Frank Helbig)
CLICK HERE for the photo of the route

Read more: Northern Cocuy

SEE MORE PHOTOS OF EL COCUY ON FLICKR

Posted in: Púlpito del Diablo, routes, Southern Cocuy